Jen O'Flaherty
Annie Hiner
Charlotte Helyar
Mhairi Graham
Sarah Mills
With a weakness for the glory days of the space age of the 60s, and a passion for beautiful clothes, Kate Barrett began The Moon And Mars in late 2009. Stocking more than 20 designers, the eboutique includes garments from Samantha Pleet, IVANAHelsinki, Surface To Air, Stine Goya and Isobel and Cleo, as well as a collection of jewellery by the likes of Daydream Nation, Dirty Librarian Chains and Bliss Lau. There is even a small selection of magazines and books. We spoke with Kate about her motivation and what she plans to do next.
Where did the inspiration for the name come from?
Although I wasn't even born I am strangely nostalgic about the 60s era of space travel. I hang out on the NASA webpage a fair bit, looking at the cosmos, and one of the drop down menus is Missions: The Moon and Mars. It has a nice ring to it!
Where do you live and work at the moment? Is there support for independent businesses?
I just moved to Edinburgh a year ago and immediately gravitated to Analogue Books in Grassmarket. As small business owners (and friendly Scots) Julie and Russell were so helpful introducing me to talent like local artist Lizzy Stewart, who does the illustration on the website and The Lindstrom Effect, who are now doing my photography.
What training did you have? Is it business or design based?
Neither, I have a background in science. However, I have done a lot of project management so I think I have the head for it. I've been collecting fashion magazines since the age 7 so I have the love for it too.
What was the motivation for your business start up?
A lot of the classic reasons apply, I wanted to start to reap the benefits of my own personal work ethic. Also I really miss the accessibility of North American brands and I thought it would be exciting to support them in the UK. Along the way I've fallen in love with a lot of European designers such as Stine Goya too.
Why did you decide to start an online boutique rather than open a bricks and mortar shop?
I originally planned to open up in London when I lived there, but I moved up to Edinburgh for my partner's work. It meant that I was starting in a city I was not familiar with. A street shop is on the cards, and I'd like to do a pop-up event sometime soon in Edinburgh.
In three words describe your boutique and the designs that it stocks?
Way.Too.Hard!
What makes you choose specific designers, what is it about their work that appeals to you?
I love luxurious fabrics and unfussy clothes, like easy daywear pieces in velvet or heavy silk. As far is local talent goes, The Moon And Mars is going to be working more with the Glasgow-based line Isobel and Cleo in the fall; the designer is incredibly talented.
Do you have a favourite design brand?
It's hard to choose but I would say I'm particularly proud to be the first UK boutique to stock Samantha Pleet.
Do you have any tips for the coming season that you can share with us?
Be brave and wear anything you love. Also, I have to support anything that channels the 90s.
What are your plans for the future – is there anything exciting in the pipeline?
More shoes. I'm a big fan of quality footwear and we'll be bringing in the amazing Rachel Comey line over the summer, it's so dreamy.
What is your biggest success so far?
I'm not saving the world, but frankly every day is better when you've got something nice to wear, it is a public service!
Garments - The Moon And Mars www.themoonandmars.co.uk
Styling - Alexandra Fiddes, Frances Spencer
Principle photographer on shoot- Darran Barton
Hair and make up - Katie Angus
Assistant - Emma Segal
Model - Romane at Superior Model Management
London Fashion Week opened the doors to its 26th year on a melancholy note, with a minute's silence to commemorate Lee Alexander McQueen, the much loved designer. This was probably the only calm moment in the event, which included over 100 designers taking part in catwalk shows, presentations and static exhibitions, held in various locations within, as well as dotted around Somerset House. It was a frantic race against time to see as much as possible. However, this year also saw LFW produce the world's first digital schedule, created by The British Fashion Council, with designers live streaming their catwalk shows. In the future of fashion will everyone have a front row seat at each show in the comfort of their own homes?
The London Fashion Week collections appeared to fall into one of two camps; the sombre, hard edged and dustily romantic or the bright and vibrant.
First on the dark side was Paul Costelloe, who opened the week with a collection that was full of Victorian Gothic undertones. A Victorian aristocrat gone bad, stalking down the runway in dark leather, lace and velvet, with hints of rose, gold and silver brocade shimmering. Bell-shaped skirts were a short updated version of the Victorian shape, this theme continued with leg o'mutton sleeves, and corset style tops. Military trench coats and skin tight leather arm guards and leg warmers gave a modern hard-edged contrast.
Continuing this mean and moody theme, NewGen-sponsored Italian born and London based designer Maria Francesca Pepe's collection was a definite standout. Her presentation Into The Woods held inside Somerset House, conjured up an enticing nightmarish fable, of werewolves and warrior maidens deep in the forest. The otherworldly models lounged against the silhouettes of bare black trees, and whether they were the prey, predator or something between, we weren't sure. Again contrasts were abundant in the collection; light feminine fabric was patterned with claw marks, leather waders and heavy gold chains were paired with sheer trousers, and floor-skimming hemlines were offset by plunging v-necks. The palette of black and dark purple mixed with white and cream served was an emphasis to this. The mix of fabrics, velvet, fur, wool and silk was subtle but very effective. Jewellery has always been a large part of Maria Francesca Pepe's work, and this season crosses in a variety of sizes featured heavily, on rings, around the neck and on slightly kinky looking dog collars. Wolf teeth buckles also appeared in the collection. These talismanic embellishments are possibly part protection against the wolf, and part symbol of life, death and rebirth.
Another favourite was Central Saint Martin's graduate Bora Aksu, who describes his collection as 'Marie Antoinette meets Edward Scissorhands'. Slight tulip-shaped bodycon dresses nipped tight at the waist appeared in pastel shades of peach, lilac, and blue, with spiderweb-like harnesses in metallic thread and chiffon ruffles overlaid, giving a beautifully enchanted but sinister feel. Shredded black leggings worn underneath were the final fairytale touch.
Another collection straight out of a storybook was Topshop Unique. Models sported garments of rough sheepskin, thick knit and textured leather with animal headgear; antlers, fox and badger heads, the most disturbing aspect however were the monobrows. Mixing fabrics and textures are a must, but which way should we go? Clashing colour crazy, or soft goth? We say get out of the cities and head into the woods...
Illustration by the lovely Francesca Waddell-www.
